When you want that oversized blazer look, but not quite THAT oversized.

Nicole found this blazer Goodwill and knew it had potential. She wanted the oversized blazer look, but this was a little too oversized for her frame. The shoulder caps were hanging off of her shoulders, the chest had a bit of a fold, and the back was baggy.

To alter this in a more traditional way I would have slimmed the chest, slimmed the back, recut the shoulders, and that would have been around 4 hours of work. But since she wanted an oversized look, that seemed a bit like overkill, and I had an idea for another route. Since the shoulders only needed to scoot in less than an inch, I could turn the darts on the front into a princess seam that went over the shoulder and all the way through the back waist. She was on board! It took me 1.75 hours instead of 4! This is why I charge by the hour for my work. If there’s a shortcut I can offer that doesn’t affect the structural integrity of a piece, and still looks well-designed then I will absolutely offer it.

This worked well for this jacket because it was so lightweight and had a busy pattern. It may not work for all blazers. And if the shoulder comes in too far, it will get a little funky because of the slant on the shoulder. I almost wonder if I should make a class for a project like this. Is there any interest?

I work on garments 1 year or older, as my mission is to get as many garments that ALREADY exist BACK into rotation. If you want to schedule an appointment at my Powderhorn studio email info@rethinktailoring.com, and let me know if you have any questions. I look forward to it!

RETHINK Tailoring & Sewing Lounge coming soon Minneapolis! Upcycling/mending services, classes, clothing swaps, and more!